Here's what I'm assuming you're focus is on your build...
1) single gfx card (not SLI'ing or Cross-firing)
2) under $1000
Here's some general advice...
1) Skip ASRock. Their boards are too hit-or-miss. Go for a Gigabyte, MSI or ASUS instead.
2) If you're only wanting to (ever) do a single gfx card, skip the "mid-range" boards that have multiple PCI gfx card slots. Instead, look at "budget gaming" ATX / mini-ATX boards. The problem with those is finding one that has PCIE 3.0 (for gfx performance) as well as a mini PCI slot that doesn't get covered up by a honking gfx card. Most mini-ATX boards are designed with Home Theatre PC (HTPC) in mind. So, they only have PCI 2.0. If you can find one with PCI 3.0 under $100, that's a good start. Generally, any decent gfx card will cover up two PCI-slots worth of space. Some of these mini boards cram the slots so close together that you can end up covering up a crucial (or only remaining) slot with the gfx card. So, next you need to be sure it has enough slots far enough away to sport everything you'll put on it (gfx card + wifi card probably). Also ... SATA port location. Many boards will have both SATA 3gb/s & 6gb/s ports. But, they put the 3 & 6 ports in different locations. If you're in a cramped case, it sucks having any of the sata ports turned 90 degrees. It's better to have the sata ports facing up on the mobo instead of angled. This lets you easily plug cables in and out instead of kinking your hand around and using foul language to get things hooked up. Look at where all things are on the board in comparison to the gfx card PCI slot. A huge gfx card may cover up sata ports or get really crammed up to memory slots on some boards. Board layout is just like real estate .. location, location, location ... of everything on the board is just as important as what the board can do. Having tons of great stuff on the mobo is worthless if a honking gfx card covers up essential stuff you need to use.
3) If you're worried about latency for online gaming, then the cheapest solution is to run an ethernet cord into your box to your router/ modem. Really great wireless cards will cost a pretty penny, and can be needless budget hogs. However, running a cable from your comp to the router/modem can look tacky. It's generally been my experience that wireless is "good enough" for online gaming. What makes the biggest difference is the server you're playing on. If it's far away or just underpowered for what it's doing then it's going to suck. If tons of folks in your family are hogging bandwidth by downloading shows or streaming, then your bandwidth will suffer. A great wifi card or wired connection to the router can't prevent any of that. For a budget build an inexpensive wifi card (or usb stick) is "good enough".
4) To OC your comp (using Intel chips) you need either the unlettered version (I think) or the the "K" versions if I remember correctly. But, OC'ing these days is just overkill. The LGA1150 Haswell chips are so far ahead of the curve that it'll be 5-10 years before some games start to push them. Why? Because console games dictate the gaming world now. X-box one and PS4 just came out, and they're using specs that are semi-modern. Any system you build using a Haswell chip will be way more than enough to game with for 5 years until new consoles come out. OC'ing it is just pointless. I just upgraded from a Sandy Bridge i5-2400 to a Haswell i5-4570 (freak accident with a power surge and not having my comp on a surge protector... rookie mistake). The Haswell is more than enough cpu for anything I throw at it gaming-wise. Heck, the Sandy Bridge was more than enough, too. I only upgraded, b/c the cpu got fritzed in the power surge. Save a few bucks and see if you can downgrade the series from 4600 to 4500. When you look at the letters on the chips, the "K" series is for OC'ing (which also requires a mobo that can do that... which I think most can, but you need to double-check the mobo specs you're buying just to be sure). The "S" series is power-saver, used for all-in-one computer builds and laptops. I think there's a "T" series... can't remember what it does. If you just get a generic i5 (without any letter following it's #), it will be more than enough computing power for a good 5 years to come. I would even go so far as to say a Haswell i3 would be fine for gaming, too. It's just a dual-core, but the Haswells are just amazing cpu's so far. Anything better than a Pentium will be good for gaming. So, you could start with an i3 then later bump to an i5. As long as it's LGA1150 socket. Gaming in the past was barely tapping multi-core. It's only using multi-core now, b/c both the Xbox-one and PS4 were made with multi-core APU's, and the tools used to make games for them also make it easier to port to PC these days. So, multi-core optimizations for console games are finally carrying over to PC ports. Bottom line, skimp on the cpu a bit. If you abolsutley want to overclock, then buy a mobo that supports it. Most, (like MSI & ASUS) come with an automatic overclocker function in the BIOS/UEFI that does the dirty work for you. I used the one on my ASUS board to OC my i5-2400 & memory. End result, the 3.10ghz was running 3.5ghz, and the ram was running 2100 instead of 1600. The difference? None. Didn't notice any difference. I eventually switched it back to normal, b/c I didn't want to put wear-n-tear on the cpu if I didn't notice a difference. I got an MSI LGA1150 socket mobo for the i5-4570. It comes with "OC Genie". I turn it on. The difference? Again... none. You won't notice much difference with OC'ing unless you go to extremes. But, to go to extremes you have to then get your hands dirty manually adjusting timings, voltate settings, and you run the risk of majorly borking up or destroying your hardware. Bottom line, I wouldn't risk it. It's needless overkill.
5) By cutting cost on the mobo & cpu ... you can buy a better GPU/GFX card. THAT'S what's going to make the most difference. Many games these days have nice graphics even on low settings. You need a beast card to run stuff. When I first did a new comp build in late 2011 (to play skyrim) after not building one for 10 years (yeah, 10 years!), I slapped a GT540 nvidia card into it. Brother and I didn't do much research. It could run games, but wasn't that great. I replaced it about 1/2 a year ago with GTX760. It was a good $200 or so. If I had to do it again, I would have gone with a Radeon. Why? Because AMD Radeon gfx cards are just as good as Nvidia, but cost less. Do some research on a nice Radeon card, and expect to pay $200-300. That's going to be the bulk of your build cost (aside from the cpu, which will prob cost you a good $200). You don't need to SLI or Crossfire to have good gaming graphics. Some games you may not be able to run with full bells and whistles, but those bells and whistles will be such outlandish stuff that doesn't make a difference (eg: realistic rain drops falling from the sky that you won't even be paying attention to while playing your shooter game). SLI'ing and Cross-firing is a god-send for graphic designers, because it gives them tons of power for graphic processing and their job. But for gaming, a single beast gfx card is "good enough". And for a sub-$1000 build you should focus on just fielding a single gfx card.
6) There's lots of opinion on cases, but I recommend getting one that lets you do all the work you need on it without a screwdriver. I've got an Antec case (my brother talked me into it). It is the biggest PITA to work on, b/c everything is screwed in. Also, the powersupply has to slip under a bar that goes right along the case. My power supply went out a year or so ago. I had to remove EVERYTHING from the case to slide the pwoersupply out from under that bar. It's ridiculous. Get a case that's easy to work on/in. One where you don't have to remove a lot of stuff to get something in and out. Also, be sure it can mount your SSD well. My Antec case was a nightmare to mount the SSD in. The 3.5 slots didn't work (even using the adapter that came with the SSD). I had to bolt the SSD to the bottom of the case in a special "SSD" mounting. This makes it a real PITA to get SATA cables and power cables hooked and unhooked to it. Just majorly annoying. If you can find a good mini-ATX gaming mobo, then you can go so far as to down-grade to a mini-ATX tower. Having a big gaming desktop rig is just a relic of the past. My tower is big and bulky and a PITA to move around. If I had to do it over again I'd go mini-ATX if I could. Something with a handle where I could pick it up easily.
7) CPU cooling ... the fan included with Intel cpu's is good enough. The problem is most folks don't mount it properly (they don't make sure the mounting pins are fastened properly, securing the fan to the cpu properly), and don't use a good thermal paste. Spend $10 for some Arctic Silver. Look up a Youtube vid on how to mount the stock fan properly. (Once you figure it out it's amazingly simple to take on and off, and you don't even have to remove the mobo from the case to do so, unlike other hulking fans that require you to bolt the mounting plate on the back of the mobo... looking at you, Cooler Master.) The stock fan (unlike some fans that come with Cooler Master and such) is that the stock fan is a 4-pin, not a 3 pin. The 4th pin is what lets the mobo utilize power-saving cool-n-quiet technology to adjust fan speed as needed. Your mobo BIOS / UEFI will give you options on passing cooling, quieter cooling (eg: underclocking cpu before increasing fan speeds), or let you just set the fan at a permanant speed. In most cases the mobo manufacturer has set the default to exactly what it needs to be. IE: it will speed up and slow down the fan as needed. I used a Cooler Master hulking heat sink on my i5-2400. It had 3-pin connectors, so the mobo couldnt' regulate it's speed. I'd start the comp, and the fan would blow full speed. The cpu would hover around 35C idle, and go up to 50C while gaming or boinc'ing. You could hear it blasting all the time, though. When I switched to the MSI + i5-4570, I went back to stock Intel fan that came with the cpu. I set the cool-n-quiet options to lower fan speed before unclocking the cpu. It now idles around 45C. That's still within good operating temperature (if I recall correctly the i-series cpu's start getting too toasty when they hit the 70C's.) When I game... it goes up to 50C. The mobo cool-n-quiet kicks in and it increases fan speed to keep it cool. The stock fan is low-profile, so it allows lots of air flow through the case. Save some money, and try the stock heat sink first. If you don't like it, you can always buy a different one. But, Intel is not an idiot. They designed amazing cpu's, and they had engineers custom make a heat sink for it, too. Give it a shot before wasting money on a different sink.
8) power supply ... what's more important than power supply wattage is the silver, gold, platinum rating. Generally the higher the rating the better the power supply. It evens out the power flow, is better at preventing surges, etc. For a single gfx card build I'd go with the 500W, maybe a 600W, but I'd shoot for something with a Gold rating. It's going to cost more, though. Go with a decent name-brand. Everything is made in china these days, but if you go with a cheap-o brand name then the power supply could cause surges that blow your components out. you don't want that.
Hope this helps.
